Marquee and Speakerbar

Thanks to the flat surfaces and the uniformly black speaker panel, applying the vinyl was extremely easy, straightforward, and quick. The holes for the speakers can be cut out with a scalpel after the vinyl has been applied. Difficulty:

Thanks to the straight surfaces and the minimal alignment required, applying the vinyl is very easy, straightforward, and done quickly. The holes for the buttons can be cut out with a scalpel after the vinyl has been applied. Difficulty:

This step requires very precise work. You can either cut a carefully measured, clean opening, or you can cut matching strips of vinyl and apply them perfectly aligned. I initially tried the first method, but I didn’t prevent the vinyl from warping enough, which resulted in an uneven cutting edge. My measurements were also inaccurate, and when applying the vinyl, it shifted and ended up crooked. 😡 To salvage the whole thing, I went with the second method using the remaining material from the center cutout. I measured carefully, aligned everything, and cut four matching strips that I applied as flush as possible. The result is certainly not perfect, but in my opinion much better than the first attempt and overall quite acceptable. Difficulty:

Thanks to the flat, uniformly black surfaces, applying the vinyl is easy, straightforward, and quick. The cutouts for the cable feed-through can be easily cut out with a scalpel after the vinyl has been applied. Difficulty:

Thanks to the flat, uniformly black surfaces, applying the vinyl is easy, straightforward, and quick. The cutouts for ventilation and the lock can be easily cut out with a scalpel after the vinyl has been applied. Difficulty:

As a small highlight, I discovered an Atari nameplate at Arcadeforge, which now has its place on the back of the cabinet. Difficulty:

Cutting the vinyl takes a bit more time, and before applying it, the sheet needs to be aligned slightly. However, the application itself is simple, and the bezel recess as well as the drill holes are so small that they don’t get in the way. Only trimming the outer contour with the scalpel requires a bit of practice to achieve a clean edge. Difficulty:

Applying the vinyl went smoothly. Trimming the outer contour with the scalpel required, as with the inside panel, a bit of practice. Difficulty:

Rogers Arcade - a DIY Project - Page 3 of 7

Control Panel (v2)

After some time, I noticed a “problem” with the 8-way setting of the joysticks:

Older arcade games like Donkey Kong, Pac-Man, Dig Dug, or Q*bert — where the character can only move in two or four directions — are often difficult to control with an 8-way joystick. The movement can stutter or get stuck. Since these games were not technically designed to process simultaneous inputs like “left + up,” they react sensitively to additional directional impulses.

Although the restrictor plate at the bottom of the joystick allows switching between 8-way and 4-way modes, I have to open the control panel every time to do so. I could leave the panel latch unlocked, but during intense matches — or when kids are playing — it would literally pop open and fall apart.

A possible solution is an additional circuit board that filters out unnecessary inputs. The problem: common Zero Delay boards are not compatible with this add-on due to their technical design — at least not without significant effort. Therefore, I will rebuild the control panel using the following components:

E-Limitator

The E-Limitator direction controller analyzes the movement the player intends and filters out unnecessary input signals. This significantly improves the gameplay experience of 2- and 4-way games when using an 8-way joystick. One E-Limitator can be used for up to two joysticks. The selected mode is indicated via an RGB LED:

Purple – 8-Way
Blue – 4-Way
Turquoise – 2-Way Vertical
Green – 2-Way horizontal

Ultimarc I-Pac2

The Ultimarc I-PAC offers 32 inputs and dedicated connection options for trackballs and spinners. The board can be operated as a keyboard device, a DirectInput device, or an XInput device, depending on the configuration. Every input can be freely assigned via software, but in XInput mode, the limitations of the protocol apply.

Both boards are equipped with screw terminals instead of HX/HL connectors, which means the joysticks and buttons also need to be rewired. I fitted the new cables with flat plug terminals and quick connectors, using a crimping tool for installation.

Difficulty:

Front Panel (Mode Select & LED Mod)

The E-Limitator installed in the control panel allows the joystick’s control mode to be adjusted “on the fly” via a switch. To prevent accidental switching, I integrated a key combination. Using a 1-channel relay (5V), the mode change is controlled: the relay is connected to one of the side buttons and the P1 start button. By holding down the side button, the relay is activated, and pressing P1-Start switches to the new mode.

An RGB LED indicates the current control mode. For this, I modified the P1 start button and removed the standard LED. By lightly widening the LED holder with a Dremel, I was able to adapt it so that it can accommodate the RGB LED along with the additional soldered resistors.

Difficulty:

Control Panel (v2)

E-Limitator

Ultimarc I-Pac2

Front Panel (Mode Select & LED Mod)

Related Posts

Custom Cover for Retro Games: New Cases for Old Classics