🔈 Audio Interface
A mini AUX board is used as the audio interface. It is available at very low prices and offers a simple, quick connection to the PC via a 3.5 mm jack.
TDA2822M
Channels: 2.0 Stereo
Dimensions: 52 x 31 x 23mm (L*W*H)
Voltage: DC 1.8-12V
Output: 0.1W-5W ;4-32 Ohms
Input: 3.5mm Audio input
To match the AUX board, I used two 2-inch speakers (5 watts, 4 ohms). Assembly with the soldering iron went smoothly, and installation in the cabinet was effortless thanks to the pre-cut recesses. However, the existing 3.5 mm jack cable was slightly thicker than the notch, so I had to carefully trim a bit of rubber from the plug using a utility knife.
🎨 Design & Vinyl Wrapping
I chose an existing design in the classic MAME style, and to complete everything, I also ordered an additional set of black vinyl, which covers the remaining uncovered areas.
To apply the vinyl, I used a squeegee, a scalpel, and scissors. The difficulty varied from part to part — from easy to challenging. With a bit more experience, I probably would have been more precise and faster. However, for my first attempts and the experience gained, I’m quite satisfied with the result.
Front
Marquee and Speakerbar
Thanks to the flat surfaces and the uniformly black speaker panel, applying the vinyl was extremely easy, straightforward, and quick. The holes for the speakers can be cut out with a scalpel after the vinyl has been applied.
Frontpanel
Thanks to the straight surfaces and the minimal alignment required, applying the vinyl is very easy, straightforward, and done quickly. The holes for the buttons can be cut out with a scalpel after the vinyl has been applied.
Monitor Bezel
This step requires very precise work. You can either cut a carefully measured, clean opening, or you can cut matching strips of vinyl and apply them perfectly aligned. I initially tried the first method, but I didn’t prevent the vinyl from warping enough, which resulted in an uneven cutting edge. My measurements were also inaccurate, and when applying the vinyl, it shifted and ended up crooked. 😡
To salvage the whole thing, I went with the second method using the remaining material from the center cutout. I measured carefully, aligned everything, and cut four matching strips that I applied as flush as possible. The result is certainly not perfect, but in my opinion much better than the first attempt and overall quite acceptable.
Back Panel
Backpanel
Thanks to the flat, uniformly black surfaces, applying the vinyl is easy, straightforward, and quick. The cutouts for the cable feed-through can be easily cut out with a scalpel after the vinyl has been applied.
Service hatch
Thanks to the flat, uniformly black surfaces, applying the vinyl is easy, straightforward, and quick. The cutouts for ventilation and the lock can be easily cut out with a scalpel after the vinyl has been applied.
Nameplate
As a small highlight, I discovered an Atari nameplate at Arcadeforge, which now has its place on the back of the cabinet.
Side panels
Side panel (inside)
Cutting the vinyl takes a bit more time, and before applying it, the sheet needs to be aligned slightly. However, the application itself is simple, and the bezel recess as well as the drill holes are so small that they don’t get in the way. Only trimming the outer contour with the scalpel requires a bit of practice to achieve a clean edge.
Side panel (outside)
Applying the vinyl went smoothly. Trimming the outer contour with the scalpel required, as with the inside panel, a bit of practice.
