Marquee and Speakerbar

Thanks to the flat surfaces and the uniformly black speaker panel, applying the vinyl was extremely easy, straightforward, and quick. The holes for the speakers can be cut out with a scalpel after the vinyl has been applied. Difficulty:

Thanks to the straight surfaces and the minimal alignment required, applying the vinyl is very easy, straightforward, and done quickly. The holes for the buttons can be cut out with a scalpel after the vinyl has been applied. Difficulty:

This step requires very precise work. You can either cut a carefully measured, clean opening, or you can cut matching strips of vinyl and apply them perfectly aligned. I initially tried the first method, but I didn’t prevent the vinyl from warping enough, which resulted in an uneven cutting edge. My measurements were also inaccurate, and when applying the vinyl, it shifted and ended up crooked. 😡 To salvage the whole thing, I went with the second method using the remaining material from the center cutout. I measured carefully, aligned everything, and cut four matching strips that I applied as flush as possible. The result is certainly not perfect, but in my opinion much better than the first attempt and overall quite acceptable. Difficulty:

Thanks to the flat, uniformly black surfaces, applying the vinyl is easy, straightforward, and quick. The cutouts for the cable feed-through can be easily cut out with a scalpel after the vinyl has been applied. Difficulty:

Thanks to the flat, uniformly black surfaces, applying the vinyl is easy, straightforward, and quick. The cutouts for ventilation and the lock can be easily cut out with a scalpel after the vinyl has been applied. Difficulty:

As a small highlight, I discovered an Atari nameplate at Arcadeforge, which now has its place on the back of the cabinet. Difficulty:

Cutting the vinyl takes a bit more time, and before applying it, the sheet needs to be aligned slightly. However, the application itself is simple, and the bezel recess as well as the drill holes are so small that they don’t get in the way. Only trimming the outer contour with the scalpel requires a bit of practice to achieve a clean edge. Difficulty:

Applying the vinyl went smoothly. Trimming the outer contour with the scalpel required, as with the inside panel, a bit of practice. Difficulty:

Rogers Arcade - a DIY Project - Page 7 of 7

💡 Ambient-Light

As an atmospheric extra, I equipped my arcade cab with “ambient light.” This feature is known from some TVs: it illuminates the back wall of the cabinet with colors synchronized to the screen content. This makes the visible area feel larger, the color effect enhances immersion, and in my opinion, the whole setup gains even more arcade flair.

For the implementation, I used an LED light strip designed for 24–26″ devices, which is controlled using a free PC app.

Govee Gaming Light Strip G1

Easy Assembly & Use: Suitable for 24-26 inch curved screens.
360° Color Matching: Fits all four sides of the screen.
Govee VibraMatch Technology: High scene-changing speed and vibrant colors.
Color-Matching via Software: Syncs screen colors along the strip lights.
Enhanced RGBIC Lighting: RGBIC gaming lights with smoother light distribution.
Non-Divisive Atmosphere: Achieve intelligent synchronization with 10 Govee lights.

Govee Desktop App

Supports PC DreamView and Razer Synapse 3, bringing you an immersive experience of lighting when watching videos or playing games.

The LED strip is simply attached to the back of the cab and connected to the power supply. Synchronization with the PC app works via Wi-Fi and functions surprisingly well. Throughout my use, I haven’t noticed any noticeable delays or errors.

💡 Ambient-Light

Govee Gaming Light Strip G1

Govee Desktop App

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